Makin' Scores

The perceived importance of wine scores from publications such as Wine Spectator, The Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast, and many others has grown exponentially in recent years. Almost all reviewers and periodicals use a 100 point scale, with 100 points essentially being a "perfect" wine. For those who haven't seen a chart of how these scores break down, the following is the information listed in each and every issue of Wine Spectator.

95-100 Classic: a great wine
90-94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
85-89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80-84 Good: a solid, well-made wine
75-79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
50-74 Not recommended

First off, ya'll can see that the 100 point scale is really a 50 point scale. Below 50 will apparently kill you on contact or at least make you immediately spit up, as Wine Spectator can't even list a definition for a score below fifty. Many (including me) would argue that it's really a 20 point scale as wines with a score below 80 are basically written off as crap without so much as a sip by the average consumer. Furthermore, you'll be hard pressed to find a shelf talker at any retail store advertising a score below 85, regardless of price. Second, the translation of these scales is often misguided as the definitions of the score ranges are misleading.

A wine scoring 95-100 points from any serious reviewer can be relied upon as technically sound, and more than likely, a great candidate for mid to long term cellaring. But that's the key, these wines are rarely in shape to be consumed on release or even within a year or two. Most "classic" scoring bottles are tight and under-developed, needing time in the cellar to mature and flourish. Many a wine drinker (including me) has been terribly disappointed by a young 97 point wine that was never meant to be opened so soon.

The range that most wine drinkers should try to hit is about 87-92. Bottles with these scores are generally ripe and ready for consumption. In fact, you can be assured that most producers who achieve scores in this range quite purposefully make their wine to be consumed young as most wine is purchased and opened on the same day.

Most importantly, be aware that scores are very rough guides. The idea that only wines with a score below 80 from Wine Spectator "may have minor flaws" is absurd. Many wines with scores above 85 have minor flaws, both technically and aesthetically. If you want to use scores as your guide when selecting at retail, sample wines that different reviewers and publications select and recommend. Identify those that most resemble your palate and taste, then use their scores more frequently or exclusively.

Remember, scores are only an outline. You can't drink a score, and a big score won't make a wine that you don't enjoy or appreciate any better.


Salud!

Evan. portlandwino.