The Wonder of Riesling

The most flexible and diverse of all white varietals, rielsing is also the great divider among wine drinkers. Those who love this noble grape will tell you that much like Champagne, riesling pairs well with nearly any meal (or any rielsing). Others simply refer to riesling as "too sweet" and pass by on their way to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The wonderful truth is that there exists a riesling to satisfy EVERYONE if just a little bit of knowledge is applied. Once one understands a few simple tips about riesling, a whole new world of well priced, outstanding wines will offer their magic to you.

Most great riesling is produced in three places; Germany, Austria, and Alsace, France. The quality of riesling in places like Australia, Oregon, Washington, New York, and Italy is constantly improving, but alcohol is generally higher and its beautifully delicate nature is sometimes lost. Below is your handy guide to finding the perfect riesling for your taste, and hopefully, some motivation to drink outside the box.

GERMANY:
The original source, and certainly the nation that produces the greatest variety of riesling. Many wines are capable of aging for decades (yes, riesling cellars very well) due to a balance of sugar and acid found nowhere else. Expect low alcohol levels from Germany, mostly ranging from 7.5-10%. That means that one can enjoy a full bottle of 8% German riesling with equivilant alcohol to a half bottle of a typical California zinfandel or syrah. German riesling is labeled by ripeness level, so guessing as to the sweetness of your local selection is unnecessary. What's more, the following distinctions can be applied to many other white wines from Germany.

- Riesling Kabinett: Typically medium dry and of high quality. Kabinett level is commonly found at any decent wine shop and won't break your bank.
- Riesling Spatlese: Riper and sweeter yet, but most have enough acidity to create balance. The body and fullness of the wine typically increases at this level as well.
- Riesling Auslese: Higher sugar concentration and greater weight. Auslese is consumed by some as dessert wine, but is suitable as table wine for those who don't mind (or love) the sweet!
- Riesling Beerenauslese: Late harvest juice that's almost always considered dessert/after dinner wine. Sugar is way up, and so is the price tag. Half bottles are the norm at this level and above, and you should expect to pay $30+ for a good one at retail. Many are well over $100.
- Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese: It's a mouthful to say and even better to drink. Typically massive and outstanding wines with the cost to match. Not widely available, but VERY good for aging.
- Riesling Eiswein (Icewine): Rotten, frozen grapes........and I'm sure you'll agree, one of the best sensations to touch ones palate in a lifetime. Rare and expensive, Eiswein is the sweetest of all.

Caveats: German riesling also offers two qualifiers to further affect your choice. Bottles are sometimes marked Trocken (dry) or Halb-Trocken (half dry). Therefore, most Riesling Spatlese Trocken will be MUCH drier than most Riesling Kabinett. If you spot a Riesling Kabinett Trocken, oh baby, that's bone dry riesling from Germany. Beginners, try the under $20 Selbach-Oster Riesling Kabinett from the "Mosel-Saar-Ruwer" region (also available as Riesling Halbtrocken).

AUSTRIA:
If you like dry, you're going to like Austrian riesling. I'd call this riesling for the sauvignon blanc/pinot grigio drinker. Steely, rich, and powerful riesling is made with mid-range prices tags. Bottles are easy to spot as nearly all display a red circle with a white stripe over the cork. A sure bet for any first timer is Nigl "Kremser Freiheit" riesling, priced at 20 bucks or less at retail. Austrian wine in general is not widely available at retailers or restaurants in a smaller city or rural area, but that's why Al Gore invented the internets, right?

ALSACE:
Riesling for the chardonnay drinker, Alsatian riesling is generally rounder and softer than German or Austrian. Lower acid levels and a longer growing season make these wines more approachable for the newbie, and hey, who doesn't like soft melons?..........in their wine. If you have the 50 bucks, try Mure "Clos St. Landelin" Riesling. This one got me interested in Alsatian wine and I'll bet it does the same for you.

* Please click the title of this post for further information on this majestic grape variety *

So put down that big Cali chardonnay and try riesling again. Now that you're equipped with some knowledge, you can find the perfect rielsing just for you.


Salud!

Evan. portlandwino.


p.s. - Although it can be difficult to find, several producers of still German riesling also make sparkling wine called "sekt." Quite inexpensive when compared to Champagne, sekt is one of my favorites for summer drinking. Expect most to be dry, packed with stone fruit and focused acidity.........also, expect to go directly back to the store for more. Recommending a producer would be folly as you likely won't find a specific label with any regularity. When you find a sekt at a decent wine shop, buy it and enjoy all by itself on a sunny summer day. Wonderful juice kids, just wonderful.